Plants and their flowers have been a natural source of coloring long before the development of synthetic dyes. People have used them to dye yarn, fibers, and fabric for clothing and other goods. In modern times, flowers are still used to create dye, though on a much smaller scale. Hobbyists may grow dye gardens packed with their favorite color-producing plants. Depending on the plant, its root, flower head, or even leaves may be the source of dye. With some plants, it is even possible to produce several colors.
The color of the dye will often depend on several factors, with one being the type of mordant used and for how long. A mordant is a substance that works to bind dyes to certain fibers, particularly those that come from plants. They often make colors more vibrant and longer-lasting. Common mordants are alum, ferrous sulfate, tannins, copper, and cream of tartar. Once the binding process is complete, the dye is extracted in water to create a dye bath. Before one can successfully begin using natural dyes, it helps to know what some of the dye-producing plants are and what colors they produce.
Black-Eyed Susan
Black-eyed Susan is a herbaceous perennial with arrow-shaped leaves. The plant, which can grow as tall as 3 1/2 feet, has flowers that vary depending on whether they are nursery-grown or wild. Nursery flowers may have petals of deep orange, peach, or white, and wildflowers are bright orange. The plant's stems and leaves produce yellow or orange, while the dye produced by its flowers is a more olive-colored green. Native Americans used black-eyed Susan to color fibers for making mats.
- Black-Eyed Susan: Indian Summer Herbaceous Perennial
- Rudbeckia Hirta: Black-Eyed Susan
Bloodroot
Bloodroot is a part of the poppy family and is native to eastern North America. The plant, which can grow up to 8 inches tall when in bloom, has a single white flower with an orange center and between 7 and 12 petals. The name bloodroot comes from the root; when cut, it releases a red sap. Native Americans have used it to dye clothing, mats, baskets, and their skin.
- Bloodroot
- Hunts Institute for Botanical Documentation: Dye
Dyer's Coreopsis
Dyer's coreopsis is a vibrant flowering annual that is native to the central and eastern United States. The plant can be as tall as 2 feet, with flowers that are yellow and reddish brown. One can make dye from this plant using the flower heads, which produce a range of colors, such as yellow, rusty brown, or gold depending on the amount of mordant that is used.
- Dye Plant of the Month: Dyer's Coreopsis
Yarrow
Yarrow, also known as soldier's woundwort and milfoil, is a perennial plant and an invasive wildflower that's resistant to drought and pests. The plant's small and compact flowers come in a range of colors, including yellow and pink. It has historically had many uses, including as a dye. The flower's head, or top, produces a yellow color when simmered, but the leaves may also be used for a greenish yellow dye.
- Yarrow, a Traditional Sinixt Dye
- California Native Plants to Dye For
Zinnia
Zinnia is a vibrant flowering annual with multi-hued petals in varying shades and combinations of red, pink, yellow, and orange. There are three kinds of zinnia that are identifiable by how many rows of petals they have: single-flowered, double-flowered, and semi-double-flowered. People can use the flowers to produce a yellowish dye.
- North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Zinnia
Dyer's Woodruff
Dyer's woodruff is a herbaceous perennial plant that's native to Europe and Russia. The plant, which can reach up to 2 feet tall, has very small, white, three-petaled flowers. The plant is a source of red dye, which is produced from the roots. Historically, it was used in ancient times for dyeing clothing.
- Cornell Botanic Gardens: Dyer's Woodruff
Alkanet
Also known as common bugloss, alkanet is a biennial/perennial plant that is native to Europe. The plant, which is invasive in the Pacific Northwest, has small blue to purple flowers that bloom in mid-summer. The dried roots produce a red or purple dye when soaked, which is often used to dye soaps or textiles.
- Alkanet, Non-Native
- B-Rated Weeds: Common Bugloss
Hollyhock
Hollyhock is a colorful perennial with flowers that vary in color. The plant's flowers, which may be white, deep purple, pink, yellow, or red, and its leaves can produce dye for a range of fabrics and materials, such as cotton and silk. Leaves produce a green color, the deepest near-black flowers produce a purplish dye, and all other colors of flowers produce yellow. Changing the acid in the dye bath can produce more color variations, including blue and green dye.
- Hollyhock
Bachelor's Buttons
Also known as cornflowers, bachelor's buttons are annuals that flower from June to August. The flowers of this easy-to-grow plant can have purple, blue, pink, or white petals. When mixed with alum, the flower produces a blue dye that can be used on linens.
- Flowers for a Future: Bachelor's Buttons
Indigo
Indigo, which is a broadleaf evergreen with pink and violet flowers, is widely known for being the original blue dye. Before synthetic dyes, indigo was in high demand, and indigo production was an enormous industry in countries such as India because of the deep blue color of the dye from its leaves. Natural indigo was a luxury and was used to dye the fabric of garments worn by the wealthy.
- CABI Invasive Species Compendium: True Indigo
- Gardening Help: IndigoFlower
Russian Sage
Russian sage is a perennial plant with small purple flowers that is neither a sage nor native to Russia, as its name would suggest. The plant, which is a part of the mint family, is instead native to southwestern and central Asia. Russian sage's flowers are purple, which makes it similar in appearance to lavender. Its petals produce a blue dye when pressed.
- Herbaceous Ornamentals: Russian Sage
- How to Grow Russian Sage
Woad
Woad is a biennial weed that is highly invasive in many areas. The plant, which is in the same family as cauliflower, has many medicinal purposes besides its use as a blue dye. Its blue dye comes from the plant's leaves during its first year; second-year flowers also produce some color. In the past, this natural dye's color was so similar to that of indigo that it was often in direct competition with the highly sought-after source of blue dye.
- Monthly Weed Post: Dyer's Woad
- Montana Field Guide: Dyer's Woad
This page was published by Chad Kremp
